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FABRIC WEAVES

Because of the wide variety of silk fabrics, we can only give a few main types, with their common manufacturing techniques and particularities.

Taffetas This is another word for basic cloth, ie, the simplest way of intertwining a warp and a weft yarn. This fabric is usually shiny, yarn-dyed, very fine-grained, with a dry and rustling feel.

Taffeta
Poult and faille soft, thick taffetas with clear cross-wise ribs. They can be treated as moiré fabrics by crushing during finishing Faille
Crepes A group of fabrics made up of yarns which have been highly twisted before weaving, giving the fabrics a particular appearance considerable suppleness. There are an enormous number of varieties of crepe, including crepe de Chine, Moroccan crepe, crepe georgette.
Crepes
Chiffon, organdie, voile, grenadine A light, matt fabrics made from fine twisted yarns, spaced out to make the fabric transparent. Silk toilles, pongees shantungs (heavy fabrics with an uneven grain) and tussah are also part of the taffeta group of fabrics.
Chiffon
Twills

The way in which the yarns are woven produces an effect of diagonal ribs and grooves. The main fabrics using this type of weave are the serges, surahs, diagonals, herringbone, diamond-shaped.

Twills
Satins

Fabrics which usually have a shiny look, and in which the points where the warp and the weft intersect are hidden, so that the fabric has a smooth, brilliant surface and seems to be made of yarns laid side-by-side. There is a wide range of satins : duchess satins, Lyons satins, double-faced radzimir satins, satin crepes with a weft made from twisted yarns, charmeuses (heavy satin crepes with a very soft feel).

Satin
Composite or fancy weaves These are various weaves combining the three above-mentioned types.

 
Reps, regencies, piques: fabrics with straight vertical ribs.  
Ottomans, grosgrains, fluted fabrics: fabrics with transverse ribs, of varying thickness.


 
Velvets

The luxurious fabric par excellence, characterised by yarns which are cut off at the same height, forming a surface resembling fur.

 

Velvets
Gauzes, bayaderes, tartans, etc.

 

 

 
Brocades and Lamés:

Pattern-weaves

The pattern-woven fabric carries a pattern which is created by the interplay of the warp and weft yarns. It is also called a Jacquard fabric, and fabrics are known as Jacquard taffeta, Jacquard velvet etc.

In these fabrics, the pattern is partially or totally made up of gold and silver threads.

Jacquard


There are also damasks, quilted and eloqué fabrics. Furnishing fabrics: double damasks, lampas, brocades, Jacquard velvet, etc.